Coffee in Persia

Coffee in Persia

The coffee habit perhaps took root in Persia even before it came to Arabia. Persian warriors were said to have driven back the Ethiopians when they tried to settle in the Yemen. The Persians would have undoubtedly found to their liking the coffee cherries growing on the trees planted by the Ethiopians, and taken them back to their own country. The story of the Mufti of Aden also refers to coffee drinking in Persia in the mid 15th century.

From very early on, most major Persian cities boasted stylish and spacious coffee houses situated in the best parts of town. These establishments had a reputation for serving coffee quickly, efficiently, and "with abundance of Respect". As a rule, the political discussions and resulting disturbances usually associated with the coffee house scene were kept low-key; it seems the clientele were more interested in hedonistic pursuits. Persian coffee houses developed a reputation for talking, music, dancing and "other things of that kind", and there are even several reports of how the government was obliged to put a stop to "the infamous practices committed there".

An English traveler tells the tale of how the wife of Shah tactfully appointed a mullah - an expert in legal and ecclesiastical matters - to make a daily visit to a particularly crowded and popular coffee house. His job was to sit there and entertain the patrons with civilized discussion of poetry, history and law, a man of discretion, he avoided controversial political issues, and disturbances were therefore rare. The mullah became a welcome visitor.

Having seen that the scheme was a success, other coffee houses soon followed suit and employed their own mullahs and story-tellers. These newfound entertainers sat in a centrally placed high chair "from whence they make speeches and tell satirical stories, playing in the meantime with a little stick and using the same gestures as our jugglers...as in England".

 

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