The Wine of Araby

The Wine of Araby

Following the examples of the Mufti of Aden and his monks, religious communities throughout Arabia took up the practice of drinking coffee. Little by little, however, its uses spread beyond religious confines. Aden's citizens were among the first to take up the habit. Since the Mufti was a respected authority on Muslim law and presumably would not knowingly consume an illegal substance himself, they were keen to follow his example and try this new drink themselves.

Coffee-drinking took place in the mosque where, after the monks had had their fill, the Imam offered it to others who happened to be present. Served in this ceremonious manner against a background of devout chanting, coffee drinking was seen as a wholesome and pious activity. However, everyone who tasted coffee liked it and wanted more, and it was not long before word spread of the rewards to be reaped from visiting the mosque.

Anxious to quell the trend, religious authorities tried in vain to restrict coffee consumption. Imams and monks were allowed to imbibe, but only in conjunction with their nightly prayers; physicians were also allowed to prescribe small quantities. However, as the less spiritually inclined continued to make late-night appearances at the mosque, and doctors increasingly began to prescribe coffee for all manner of ills, it was hard to curtain its use.

Recipients in the mosque found coffee a pleasant stimulant and conducive to sociability. Before long, the beverage was sold openly in the area, attracting a motley crowd of law students, night workers and travelers. Eventually, the whole city took up the practice, not just at night but round-the-clock and in the home too. Not surprisingly, the hot, strong coffee was particularly popular during Ramadan, when fasting is obligatory from sunrise to sunset.

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